Sunday, June 7, 2015

Granada, June 6, 2015

Saturday, June 6th:


We left Seville at 7:30 am for our 4 hr ride to Granada and visit to the Alhambra.  Along the way we had a 30 minute break.  The ride took us into a cooler region of Spain and into the foothills of the Sierra Nevada range, which still had some snow capped mountains.  The lower temperature – “80’s” – was greatly appreciated.  Our timed tickets were for noon and they strictly adhere to the time, because only 8,000 visitors are permitted per day.  We arrived at the Alhambra complex around 11:30 am and met our guides.  
The existing portion of the Alhambra, with it reddish stucco exterior, is just a fraction of what had been built and occupied from the 8th through 15th century before the Christians retook Granada in 1492. Most of it had been destroyed by the reconquering Christian armies and by subsequent wars, especially when Napoleon occupied the complex. Supposedly Muslin architecture reached its zenith in Spain in the construction of this palace, which was occupied by the sultans and their harems over a 700 year period. Originally it was designed as a fortress on a rocky hilltop outcropping overlooking the Darro River. Granada is across the river andbelow the Alhambra.
We entered the complex through the Charles V entrance to the Charles V Palace, which was never completed.  It is a circular structure within a square building.  
 
Charles V Palace



From there we proceeded to Gateway of Justice, which is the entrance gate to the Alhanbra.   and passed through several chambers with views through the “screened” windows to the city below. There was elaborate stucco work and carved wooden or stucco ceilings throughout. Then we entered the Court of the Myrtles which is a courtyard containing a long reflecting pool lined with low cut myrtle trees, 

A doorway off the Court of the Myrtles leads to the Court of the Lions, which contains a gorgeous fountain resting on 12 lions representing the hours of the day, months of the year, and signs of the zodiac.   

Given to the Sultan by the Jewish community, it can also represent the 12 tribes of Israel.  The lions and fountain have been restored and reassembled into its original location in the Court of the Lions that contains 124 marble columns.
Just off this courtyard was the Sala de los Abencerrajes where the last emir, Boabdil, invited his rivals to a banquet and at the end of the banquet had his guards enter and massacre (behead) the guests.  The room has an elaborate stucco ceiling; reminiscent  of the cave in which Mohamed lived and prayed. 


Another room, Hall of the Two Sisters, is off the other side of the Court of the Lions and this is where the sultan kept his current “favorite.”  It too had a very elaborate domed ceiling made of stucco.
Continuing through the palace complex, we walked above the Royal baths, onto a walkway with views of the countryside, and then on to the gardens on our way to the Summer Palace.  This section contains the room where Washington Irving stayed and wrote “The Tales of the Alhambra.”  This section was built for Charles V to stay during his honeymoon.  We exited through the Partal Garden with a central fountain.  
As we moved toward the garden area, there is a nice little "waterfall" and niche with ferns.

We re-enter the grounds to walk to the Generalife gardens and the summer palace that was built in the 13th century as a summer retreat for the sultans. As we walked through the Generalife there were magnificent views of the Alhambra and countryside along archway lined walkways.   We entered the summer palace with its lovely courtyards and the one known as Patio de la Acequia contains a long pool with rows of water jets arching into the pool.    

The garden surrounding the long pool are representative of typical Arabian gardens of those times – fruit trees, flowers, hedges, edible plants, etc.  From the summer palace there were good views of the old city on the hillside. 
After leaving the Summer Palace, there was another good view of the Alhambra. The group reassembled for our long drive back to Seville.  We arrived back at 7:15 pm, relaxed and had a late dinner in the hotel.  Tomorrow is a free day until 7:45 pm when we gather to go to the evening choir concert. 

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