Barcelona, Day 3

Monday, June 1^st:

We had breakfast as usual at 7:45 am and assembled at 8:30 pm for a morning of touring Gaudi sites:  Parc Guell and Casa Mila.  Both of these Gaudi sites give an idea of the expansive architectural work and genius of Antoni Gaudi at the beginning of the 20^th century. 

Gaudi’s construction of Park Guell began in 1900 as an attempt to create an estate for wealthy families on Muntanya Pelada (Bare Mountain) with splendid views of the Plain of Barcelona and the Mediterranean.  The original plan called for 60 homes within a network of paths, viaducts, and steps similar to British residential estates.  After four years of building, the project halted due to the exclusive nature of the project and the difficulty of transportation to the park.  The Barcelona City Council acquire it in 1922 and opened it as a public park in 1926.  Three residences were built and Gaudi lived in one of those until his death in 1926. 

At the main entrance, are two buildings covered in tile-covered mosaics.  The shards of tile were other acquired from demolition materials and discarded tiles.  Upon entering the park, the monumental double flight of steps that ascend to the hypostyle (columned) room.  Beneath this room is a holding tank for water captured from the terrace above to water the springs and fountains.  In the center of the steps are sculptural features clad with tile-shard mosaic.  There is a snake’s head above the shield of Catalonia and a very brightly colored mosaic salamander.  The hypostyle room contains 86 striated columns (4 less than the Doric order in ancient temples).  The positions of the 4 “missing columns” are occupied by four huge ceiling, mosaic-clad medallions with sea themes that create open spaces among the regular layout of columns.  The outer columns and roof slope in an undulating movement with the ceiling being composed of small domes. 

Above the hypostyle room is an esplanade known as the Nature Theatre designed to hold open-air shows.  This terrace is partly dug into the mountain and contains an undulating bench that runs along its entire perimeter to create the world’s longest bench.  It is ergonomically designed  and covered with tile-shard mosaic and cylindrical pieces of pottery.  The spiral ramp leading to the residence at the top of the park is supported with helicoidal columns to create a dual-height structure to merge the upper and lower balconies.  Gaudi’s overall design is a continual dialogue between architecture and nature. 

After walking through the park, we boarded the bus to visit one of Gaudi’s homes -- the Casa Mila in Barcelona, which was built between 1906 and 1912.  It is also called La Pedrera, meaning The Quarry, because of its jagged, rocky façade.  This house was built from the ground up with balcony facades of iron sculptures.  The visit encompassed the multileveled rooftop with its undulating steps and 30 chimneys and ventilation towers, the attic with its unique hyperbolic arches to support the rooftop, and the apartment containing period furnishings.  The building uses an atrium to maximize daylight in all the apartments and ventilation towers to cool the building in the summer.  Within the attic is a multimedia exhibit with models, photos, and examples of Gaudi’s works. 

We then had a walking tour of old town that took us along the Ramblas, the popular pedestrian promenade.  It began on the Catalunya square where we departed the bus and set out on foot.  Because today was a holiday, the Ramblas was filled with people.  We walked past the Cathedral of Barcelona, saw the King’s square, and visited the site of the four Roman columns that were part of the original Temple of Augustus that was part of the Roman Forum in ancient times.  Instead of heading back with the bus, we stayed in Old Town and had lunch along the waterfront. 

After lunch, we walked to the beach and relaxed before heading to the Barcelonetta Subway station for our connections back to the hotel.  From our position along the beach we could see the huge golden fish metal sculpture off in the distance.  Instead of going out for dinner, we had dinner in the hotel.  Dinner consisted of shrimp cocktail, sea bass, and cheesecake; all of which were excellent.

Tomorrow we gather at 8:45 am for our travels to Montserrat.